乃木将軍の住まいを移築した部屋で、歴史に思いを馳せ、庭を愛でる
In a room relocated from General Nogi’s residence
Reflect on history while admiring the garden
＜通な料亭の楽しみ方をお教えします＞
「寿美久満」名物、グリーンピースのあん入り押し抜き寿司を一度食べてみませんか。予約時に指定すれば、会席コースに押し抜き寿司を組み入れてもらえます。また鰆の押し抜き寿司弁当や寿司単品の販売も行っています。弁当は3日前、寿司のテイクアウトは前日までに予約してください。
<Let us show you the expert way to enjoy a ryotei.>
Why not try the famous oshinuki sushi with green pea paste from ‘Sumikuma’? If requested at the time of booking, oshinuki sushi can be included in the kaiseki course. They also offer oshinuki sushi bento boxes with mackerel and individual sushi items for sale. Please make a reservation for the bento boxes 3 days in advance and for sushi takeout by the day before.
「寿美久満」は、明治の始めに「炭屋」の名で宇多津の地に創業した130余年続く老舗料亭です。昭和16年に現在の場所に移転して旅館として営業していた時代もあり、「炭熊」さらに「寿美久満」と屋号を変えながら、暖簾を守り続けています。現在、伝統の味を受け継ぐのは七代目亭主の住野弘宜さん。女将の住野君江さんは、心のこもった上品なおもてなしをしてくれます。訪ねるとまず驚くのが、凝った造りの広々とした玄関。特別な日の食事へと向かう気持ちを、贅沢な空間が高めてくれます。時代を感じる長い廊下を進むと、大小の個室があります。中でも赤い壁が印象的な「乃木の間」は、特に多くの人々に愛されて来ました。丸亀京極家が所有した建物の一部が、陸軍第11師団の初代師団長として赴任した乃木希典の仮住いとして善通寺に移築され、さらに今の場所に移されたと伝わるのがこの「乃木の間」。窓の外に広がる緑濃い松のお庭を愛でながら、香川県の西部地域の歴史に思いを馳せる、ここだけの時間が流れます。
“Sumikuma” is a long-established ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) that was founded over 130 years ago under the name “Sumiya” in the early Meiji period in Utazu. In 1941, the establishment moved to its current location and ran as an inn for a period. Over the years, it has continued to uphold its tradition, changing its name from “Sumikuma(炭熊)” to “Sumikuma(寿美久満)” while maintaining its legacy. Currently, the seventh-generation master, Hiroyoshi Sumino, carries on the tradition of the restaurant’s authentic flavors. Kimie Sumino, Lady of the house, provides warm and refined hospitality with great attention to detail. What surprises you when you visit is the spacious entrance with its intricate design. The luxurious space enhances the feeling as you head towards a meal for a special occasion. As you walk down the long hallway that evokes a sense of history, you will find private rooms of many sizes. Among them, the “Nogi no Ma” with its striking red walls has been especially beloved by many. The “Nogi no Ma” is said to have originally been part of a building owned by the Marugame Kyōgoku family, which was relocated to Zentsūji as a temporary residence for Nogi Maresuke, the first commander of the 11th Division of the Imperial Army. It was later moved to its current location. As you gaze out the window at the lush pine garden, you can reflect on the history of the western region of Kagawa, experiencing a unique moment that can only be found here.
会食前にここでもひとときを過ごしたくなる立派なエントランス。取材にうかがった時は「うたづの町家とおひなさん」のイベントに合わせて、女将と娘さんが持つ2つのおひなさまが飾られていた。 The magnificent entrance makes you want to spend a moment here before your meal. When I visited for the interview, two hina dolls owned by Lady of the house and her daughter were displayed in time with the “Utazu Townhouse and Hina Dolls” event.
広々としたお庭の景色に、目を奪われる。 The expansive garden view captivates the eye.
料理は、四季折々の瀬戸内の食材をふんだんに使った、宇多津らしいご馳走が並びます。宇多津の料理は甘さが特長で、他所で修行した料理人も、宇多津で店を開くと必ず甘く変わるほどの土地柄。「寿美久満」は、ずっとその味に寄り添っています。「寿美久満と言えば、この料理」と言われる名物の押し抜き寿司は、その象徴ともいえそうです。四角い寿司の真ん中に入っているのは、グリーンピースでつくった自家製のあんこ。あんもち雑煮を好む香川においても驚きの珍品です。口に運ぶと、酢めし、上にのった鰆、エビ、でんぶと、あんこのバランスは見事。また食べたい、と記憶に残る味になるはずです。甘い寿司を探求するなら「おから寿司」もおすすめです。醤油と砂糖で煮たおからをすし飯に混ぜ、半身のキスをのせてにぎる、こちらも希少な寿司です。
The dishes feature a rich selection of seasonal Setouchi ingredients, offering a feast that is characteristic of Utazu. The cuisine of Utazu is known for its distinct sweetness, and even chefs who have trained elsewhere inevitably adapt their dishes to this sweeter style when opening a restaurant in Utazu. “Sumikuma” has always stayed true to that flavor. The famous Oshinuki sushi, often referred to as “the dish that represents Sumikuma,” can be considered a symbol of the restaurant. In the center of the square sushi is a homemade sweet bean paste made from green peas. It is a surprising delicacy, even in Kagawa, where red bean rice cake soup (an-mochi zōni) is favored. When you take a bite, the balance of the vinegar rice, topped with Spanish mackerel, shrimp, seasoned codfish, and the bean paste, is simply exquisite. It is a taste that will surely leave an impression, making you want to enjoy it again. If you are exploring sweet sushi, I also recommend trying the “okara sushi.” Okara, simmered in soy sauce and sugar, is mixed into the sushi rice, topped with half a grilled whiting, and then shaped into nigiri. This is also a rare type of sushi.
押し抜き寿司付きミニ会席。料理は、春の鰆、初夏の小鯛、冬の牡蠣や車海老など四季折々の瀬戸内の海の幸が使われる（写真はイメージ）。 A mini kaiseki with oshinuki sushi. The dishes feature seasonal seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, including spring Spanish mackerel, early summer small sea bream, and winter oysters and tiger prawns. (Picture shown are for illustrative purposes only.)
変化の多い時代、変わらぬ伝統を守るにはきっと多くの努力が求められるはず。けれどそんな苦労をものともせず風格を保ち続けるのが、七代続く寿美久満らしさ。宇多津の古い町並にあり、いつでも凜としてそこにいてくれます。
In times of constant change, preserving timeless traditions undoubtedly requires significant effort. Yet, despite such challenges, the fact that it continues to keep its dignified presence is what truly embodies the spirit of Sumikuma, which has been passed down through seven generations. Located in the historic townscape of Utazu, it always stands there gracefully, no matter the time.
